Nelson Lakes Tramp
Nelson Lakes Tramp
Leaving from the St Arnaud’s DOC camp ground it started snowing. All I could think was I am so stoked I’ve recently bought this new MacPac softshell and it is definitely going to be out through its paces on this trip. The weather is disgusting as we trudge on around Lake Rotiti carving through the magnificent Beech forest to the Lakehead Hut our lunch spot. Today is a short day as we only started at 1300, our goal is to camp a short distance from the Cascade Track so we could launch our assault early tomorrow morning for Angelus Hut. We find a nice little nook on the flats with a bit of coverage from the Beech, we set up camp an awesome fly and the mountain radio, start cooking dinner, the temperature is dropping markedly this was evident by the ever approaching snow line descending down the side of the valley towards us. Content with a puku fill of Devilled sausages we await the mountain radio report at 1930. Winds of 40km/h gusts upwards of 60km/h snow levels down to 400m (we were already at 600m), with this nasty looking outlook we head to bed when we are only armed with ice axes. |
| clear snow line |
We awake to snow covered tents. Our group is humming, the year full of experience shows when the camp is packed up within an hour, and our pace on the flat is almost 5km/h. We arrive at the start of the Cascade Track 0900 the sign says 4-5 hours to reach Angelus Hut, let the onwards and upwards begin. Well the beautiful greens of the Beech forest soon start changing to white and before we know it we are in a winter wonder land, and are frequently running a gauntlet as the wind moves the tree and it dumps its load of snow. The track soon starts to become invisible in the blanket of snow and we start having to rely on the DOC orange markers. As we climb ankle deep snow soon makes way for knee deep, the next instance we are falling through to our hips, and soon enough even the DOC orange markers become a bit of a mission to locate. The 4-5 hour time line to reach Angelus Hut soon becomes a dream as we plough on through the ever deepening snow. I end up leading the group through the snow for a while due to my weight I can kick in more wholesome steps, in this untouched wonderland I am soon falling through to my waist and chest. We decide to stop for lunch after about 4 and half hours of slogging it high in the Cascade Valley. We look around at the tops and see the wind whipping the snow in fury, the crystal blue skies are such an antagonist to the brutal winds scouring the tops. With no transceivers, probes, shovels or even crampons we as a group decide that it would be a foolish to continue. The down hill experience is much easier as all the steps have already been plugged out, time flies by as we descend back down the valley. We soon reach the sign too Angelus, and pull together an on the spot plan for our next 2 days. We make up camp about 50m from our original camp, pretty ironic returning relatively to the same spot. We set up camp, and manage to wind dry our wet gear. Cook a scrumptious pasta meal and warm ourselves by the fire, waiting to pass the message onto our fellow Tech students that we won’t be making the rendezvous point, and that they will have to return as well. Tiredness sets in, we retire for the night.
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| wind whipping snow of the tops |
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| where is the next marker |
We must’ve had a good sleep because our plan we draw up is an ambitious one to say the least. We plan to travel back around the southern side of Lake Rotiti and launch an assault on Bushline Hut from the track, a height gain of approximately 600m of elevation over 1000m through dense bush (I mean dense). Off we set using ridge aerobics we initially make solid progress, then it gets steeper and the bush thicker until at times we are literally crawling upwards on all fours, we were wet when we started now we look like we have been sprayed by the fire service dripping wet, as every time you knock a tree it dumps its load of water on you. After about 2 hours of these shenanigans we reach a somewhat clearing, and see that our progress has matched a snails like pace and we have well over a kilometre to make up. The wind is humming off the top, if we actually do make it through the bushline hypothermia is on the cards. Another group decision sees us heading back down through the bush, not a snail pace either, over 2 hours up, 20 min down, go figure. Another plan is slapped together, Bushline Hut via the track, 2 hours. Soaked to the bone we enjoy the quickest imaginable lunch and start the haul to the hut. We smash the time, when we finally make it through the bushline it is snowing horizontally. We lean forward and walk on until the hut finally comes to welcome view. We get inside. It has the smallest fire imaginable but soon it is pumping and the cold hut soon feels like Fiji, the laughs and stories start and everyone is genuinely happy to be inside. Dinner, mafia, mountain radio, and my favourite sleep follow.
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| the cloud sets in, setting the bearings |
The next morning we awake to blue skies, not without ominous clouds in the distance however. The wind is up, and a decision is made, to cross Mount Robert. We start walking through the snow, armed with our ice axes, we make a lot of ground quickly. Those ominous clouds move in, the wind picks up and visibility drops to about 10-20m. Bearings are made, as features quickly disappear and to through the spanner in the works Paula gets some of us to pull our beanies down so visibility is zero, and for our partner to guide us with the bearing. Phil and I got it down pat with a solid system of calls, and we made almost as much ground as being not blindfolded. The wind is still pelting as we finally find the hut on the tops, we don’t stop keeping warm is the goal. We soon drop of the side of Mount Robert, everyone was quite excited after the challenge. With snow covering the track my joints sigh a sign of relief, on the steep track. We cruise down in a fashionable time, we are hoping like buggery there is someone at the carpark otherwise there is another 5-8km to add onto the trip.
We at last pop out at the carpark, and there is the CPIT Polytech crew, who had a similar experience to us. We are informed that one of their people on the Lewis Tops tramp had to get Westpac Choppered out with hypothermia, this ramifies home how through the decisions that we made, we are all here at the end when it could have really gone balls up into an epic. Paula hitched a ride with the CPIT crew to our van, she soon gets back and we are on our way home.
photos are courtesy of Tui Kraal
Lewis Pass tramp
- TYPE OF ACTIVITY- Tramping
- TRIP NAME/LOCATION- Lake Chistabel and Lewis Pass tops
- DURATION- 4 days, 3 nights
- GRADES OF ACTIVITY- n/a
- NUMBER OF PARTICIPANTS- 7
- ACCOMMODATION- Tents
- VARIATION IN DAILY CONDITIONS - Early morning frosts
- WEATHER CONDITIONS- Light rain early in the week, with strong winds on tops, weather turning fine later in the week
- INCIDENTS/ INJURIES- n/a
We leave Greymouth bound for Palmer Flat the start of our expedition over the Lewis Pass tops. We arrive mid morning, and leave the safety of our vans and make towards our first goal Lake Christabel. We follow the DOC orange markers along the Blue Grey River track, the progress is not as fast as we expected for our 14km first day, as the track did not have a great deal of elevation however there was much mud and climbing over and around roots with our heavily laden packs. We finally arrive at the western end of beautiful tree lined Lake Christabel where the bush rises steeply from the lake edge. We start our circumnavigation of the lake to our final destination of day one, a glorious flat section at the head of the lake, the timing was perfect as the day was quickly drawing to a close and we didn’t want to set up camp in the dark. Our group quickly splits up to construct our temporary home for the night, tents, kitchen, and a well received warm fire. We set up the mountain radio for 1930hrs to get our daily weather report and to report our location. Light drizzle and occasional gusts of wind send us off to sleep on our first night.
We are awoken to clear skies however the frigid gusts haven’t ceased. We deconstruct our temporary home, consume our quota of cereal and tea, whilst constantly being aware of our grand surroundings. I slip back into the beautiful, comfortable and most importantly warm, Joe and Piper (my miendl’s), and make haste. We rejoin the track and head onwards on our journey, as we travel our intrepid group makes a plan to get off this beaten track and put into practise the navigation we have learnt. Our catchment feature of a creek intersection arrives, we set our compass bearings and head straight across the creek and up. We calculated approximately 800m of elevation, through thick uncompromising bush. About 2 hours later of hard slogging we finally break through the bush line and are greeted by the golden alpine tussock. Salami and cheese wraps, overlooking a priceless view for lunch, it does not get much better. 
Zak sets us a number of navigational challenge to find a tarn in pairs, we triangulate our position, then Todd pacing and I on the bearing, we leap frog our way to a tarn, not the correct tarn we missed the goal by about 50m, we determine it was our triangulation and we hadn’t set off from the correct position. By this stage camp is on all of our minds, and we choose the biggest tarn in the area, it is in this magnificent vast bowl. At this time the bitter wind is starting to increase to somewhat howling gusts as we set up our tents. My singular layer of clothing is quickly turned into two thermals, a fleece, jacket, rainproof pants, and I am thanking my lucky stars for buying good gear. I was sitting on my sleeping mat whilst eating dinner, when getting up for some more food, a strong gust of wind turns my sleeping mat into a kite and I watch in despair as it flies down the valley, after chasing it for almost a kilometre I return empty handed. We huddle around the mountain radio for another weather report, we all think the reporter is pulling our leg as he states slight winds, as we stare at our guy ropes taught from restraining the tents from joining the same fate as my mat. That I night I learn that a sleeping mat main use isn’t necessarily for comfort it is actually for insulation from the cold ground. As a group we name this stunning area the ‘Tangerine Bowl’ in dedication to the lost sleeping mat.
Walking around the small tarn, it is partly frozen, a clear indicator of the temperature overnight. With breakfast and a warm cuppa we don our packs and climb out of the Tangerine Bowl and onwards to our next part of our adventure. While climbing we learn very quickly the necessity of travelling as a tight group or all on the same line, as boulders and rocks are easily kicked out whilst climbing and quickly gain momentum and become a lethal projectile We finally reach the narrow ridge, and get our first sight of the vast stunning Lewis Tops. Brass Monkey Bivouac is our aim for lunch, which required us to drop a considerable amount of altitude off the ridge and then traverse around the opposing high point, travelling across scree slopes, boulder fields, and some very steep sections. Time travels and lunch arrives. The group spirits are still high as this added sense of satisfaction travelling an alternative route to the other group. Mount Apprentice is our destination for this evening, and a considerable distance had to be covered to achieve this, however the travel is good as we are travelling on a high ridgeline, the dramatic landscape is intoxicating as the grand spectre of this special place is appreciated. We stop high on the ridgeline for a break, and the essence of the group is captured by the highly skilled Zak Shaw. At this time the camp site is in site, surrounded by The Apprentice, and the daunting Mt Technical, our feet seem to get lighter as our aim gets closer and closer. With camp set up, Kieran encourages everyone to climb Mt Technical, a sizable 1870m high, a group of us set of for camp for a final challenge of the day. Mt Technical’s name is not without cause as we climb. On our final approach to the summit we pass a huge slab of snow/ice, and make our way across the very loose scree field. Tui, Kieran, Todd, Zak and myself make it to the thin summit, unhindered 360 degree views, truly incredible. With adrenaline running high we make our way off the summit, and descend to camp. We receive our final Mountain Radio weather report, enjoy our warm dinner. I spread every item of clothing I have on the ground of the tent to try and insulate myself, and fall asleep within minutes.
To be awoken what seemed minutes later at 0430hrs, Zak Shaw’s final challenge, night navigation. We have a warm cuppa and set of, under moonlight and head torches, we make a start on our final day. Relying on compass bearings we make slow but correct progress, leap frogging each other to make sure we don’t stray off our original bearing. We bear witness to the starting’s of a surreal sunrise, the deep reds and bright oranges welcome us into the next day. Our bearings and navigation was true as we pass a fellow group still fast asleep, at 0730, so decide to be personal alarms and wake their whole camp up, by jumping in tents. We move on, and have breakfast nestled in next to a tarn, during breakfast we are accompanied by two striking Kea’s. As we continue on the trail becomes more evident, the travel becomes easier, but the views are in no way lessened. We stop just before the bushline and partake in group feedback, and take our last glance of the view from this high vantage point. The travel on this bush track is a lot faster than our start, and we hear before see the signs of civilisation as the sounds of cars on the Lewis Pass Hwy come into earshot. We finally reach tarmac and our 4 day adventure is over, we are at the start of the Lewis pass tramp, elated at our accomplishment, we enjoy our lunch and share our experiences with the other group who join us later. Success, not only did we achieve our goals, we surpassed them, in a region that has to be seen to be believed. 
- TYPE OF ACTIVITY- Tramping
- TRIP NAME/LOCATION- Croesus track to Moonlight track over Paparoa range
- DURATION- 4 days 3 nights
- GRADES OF ACTIVITY- n/a
- NUMBER OF PARTICIPANTS- 8
- ACCOMMODATION- tents
- VARIATION IN DAILY CONDITIONS- n/a
- WEATHER CONDITIONS- Generally fine
With the logistics all sorted. The challenge named, 8 of us plus the mighty Dave Williams set due course for Croesus track, a day that would entail over 1000m of elevation over approximately 9km for the first day of three. A nice test of character for the first tramp.
River Crossings
- TYPE OF ACTIVITY- River Crossings
- TRIP NAME/LOCATION- Arahura River
- DURATION- 1 day
- GRADES OF ACTIVITY- swift moving water
- NUMBER OF PARTICIPANTS- 15
- ACCOMMODATION- n/a
- VARIATION IN DAILY CONDITIONS- n/a
- WEATHER CONDITIONS- fine
- INCIDENTS/ INJURIES - n/a
Bring your wetsuit, along with our packs as though you are going tramping we are advised, you will be getting wet. I’m looking forward to this session as it is a great chance to see how effective all my gear is especially my dry bag. We arrive at the Arahura, which is glacial river so in other words it is freezing. We put on our wetsuits, put our tramping boots back on, and fasten our packs, a funny sight 16 people going tramping in wetsuits. 
Under Keith, Joe and Dave’s guidance we commence to see what it is like to swim with a pack on. Interestingly quite effectively if you have your bottom strap done up as your pack is somewhat inflated, and with a double arm back stroke you can cover some ground. However this day is designed to show you what not to do, as a) you wouldn’t actually go tramping in a wetsuit, and b) why would you along with your gear want to get completely soaked in a freezing cold river and waste all that energy. So we move up stream to a shallower section to practise actually crossing techniques. We practise multiple techniques to see the most effective, the hands behind the back and grabbing onto their strap with about 4 people seems to be the most effective. The old school linking the arms is a waste of time, but linking arms and holding onto a common object such as log is effective. Solo crossings in fast water turn into a running man trying to keep your feet and you end up miles downstream. We practise turning around in the current, the circle approach, the caterpillar approach, and backing out, the latter was the most simple and effective, as it avoided confusion and tripping each other up. We also learn that you can bodyboard backpacks down rapids, as a very very last resort.
The Arahura is home to much ponamu, and Dave over lunch shows us different types of ponamu and the whakapapa of the beautiful stone. We finish the day with the most epic chance of failure, trying to put into practise what we have learnt into a rapid that you just wouldn’t cross. After multiple failures it becomes apparent that the chaotic running man is the only way to get across the rapid. We practise getting over strainers in moving water which is no easy task. So nice and cold and wet we dry off and warm up in the beautiful sun, and have learnt very clear what and what not to do when crossing rivers.
